Earlier this year, I mentioned to keep your eye out for future tips on establishing a good, healthy stand of turf.  Well, just like almost everything else in life, time passes more quickly than we hope and now we find ourselves right at that point.

Generally, as September approaches, the evening temperatures should get lower, the amount of rainfall should increase, and the humidity levels should be dropping.  All those add up to the perfect opportunity to get that lawn ready to show off to all your neighbors and friends next year.  Next Year????   Yup – it’s the upfront time and effort you invest now that will bring you the rewards next spring.

Let’s get started!

You should already have the square footage of your lawn handy someplace from our earlier discussion on crabgrass and weed control (see my earlier blog post, “Turf Tips From Dave”).  If you don’t, or have misplaced it….well, you’ll need this measurement again.

One of the most frequent problems with homeowners having a poor lawn is that there really isn’t a healthy soil base to allow proper root development.  Unfortunately, now you’ll need to build this “root zone” from the “top-down”.  Try to estimate the average distance from the crown of your existing grass to where the bare patch of soil begins.  I usually find it’s between ½” and 1”.  You need to establish an “even” base, otherwise the turf will be growing unevenly and, more importantly, when we attempt to “slice” the seed into your yard the seed will not reach the desired target area.  Use the following link to help you determine the amount of soil you’ll need: www.csgnetwork.com/topsoilcalc.html

Next, you’ll want to select a nice turf type. I recommend a tall fescue seed.  Fescues are extremely drought tolerant, less susceptible to fungal disease, and have a very nice color and texture.  The day of bluegrass lawns is passé!  I recommend the following rates:

Very thin density – 7 lbs of seed for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Medium – 5 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Just want to “beef it up” a bit – 3 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Make sure you purchase “certified” seed.  This seed has been sterilized and all weed seed is eliminated from it.  Seed from your local hardware store that is not certified is not good because it carries weed in it, defeating the purpose!  You’ll know certified seed if it carries a blue tag indicating such.

Now you’re ready to begin:

1. Spread the soil evenly and fill in low areas.
2. Using a broadcast spreader, evenly spread half the amount of seed required across your lawn.
3. Rent a power aerator from your local equipment rental store.  Aerate the lawn in two directions, perpendicular to each other.  This process will “punch” the seed into the soil while at the same time create area for good root development.  Let the cores that have been pulled, dry.
4. Using a “slit-seeder” (rented from the equipment store), slice in the other half of the needed amount in two directions.  The use of a slit seeder will insure good seed-to-soil contact.
5. Use a “starter” fertilizer at the recommended rate.
6. Set up a means to water the lawn.  Sometimes all you need is some hose attachments that can split your line in a few directions and some inexpensive impact sprinklers.

Remember to keep the area moist, and the seed should begin germination in about 12-14 days.

Now here comes the CRITICAL part: DO NOT let the young seedlings dry out!  Remember, the roots on these are microscopic and can dry out quite easily.  Keep the soil moist….not saturated….moist.  If you let the seedlings dry out, they aren’t going to be able to be revived again and all your hard work will be lost.

I know it may sound a bit involved, but it really isn’t!  Most of the time, all it takes is just one good day of work for you and a neighbor!  Splitting the cost of the equipment with someone else on your street is a good way to reduce your costs and insure that you’ll have some help!

Good luck and get started!  You’ll have both the fall growing season AND the early spring season before the threat of weed pressure begins, but you’ll have solved the biggest part of that potential problem with the thick, dense, gorgeous green lawn you now have!

NOTE: We are sad to announce that Dave is leaving Classic to pursue a job close to his home. He has been a valued member of the Classic Team for over five years, and he will be greatly missed by co-workers and clients alike. However, he has graciously accepted our invitation to visit from time to time as a guest blogger. We wish Dave all the best, and are thankful that we can continue to profit from his experience and knowledge through his helpful articles.

Lately, we have been dealing with unusually hot weather followed by a few days of several inches of rain.  As I sit on the porch with my mother watching the sunset over the Catoctin Mountains she says, “ Red at night sailors delight, red in the morning sailors warning.”  We talked about these old wives’ tales and their origins.  Many have been passed down through generations. You have probably heard many of these tales.  Can they be proven or are they really true? I don’t know, but the weather is always a great conversation starter.

Maybe some of these tales have been passed through your family…

• When cows herd together, it’s going to rain.

• When spiders build new webs, the weather will be clear.

• If a groundhog sees his shadow on February 2, six more weeks of winter will follow.

• It’s hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk.

Whether or not these are myths or proven facts, we may never know.  Possibly you could ask an old wife.

I love my job! I have never been so proud of being part of a great organization as I am in being part of the Classic Landscaping family. I am deeply touched and proud of our company for taking part in the July 19 Arlington Cemetery Renewal and Remembrance.

On July 19, 2010 hundreds of landscape, lawn care and tree care companies from across the nation brought their crews to Arlington National Cemetery to spend the day mulching, pruning, liming, planting and aerating the entire cemetery. Classic Landscaping was one of those 100 companies who donated time and machinery. I was so pleased to see Scott Hall, CEO of Classic Landscaping, on a lime spreader; Brian Etchison, our Production Manager, riding a brand new John Deere tractor; and Matt Svehla, our Fleet and Facilities Manager, along with his son and seven other valuable Classic employees, working hard and contributing to this honorable project.

I was humbled by the emotion of seeing hundreds of landscaping companies working together to embrace this country’s most cherished resting place. More than 300,000 people are buried there, including veterans from all of the nation’s wars from the American Revolution through Iraq and Afghanistan. I felt that it was a privilege for Classic Landscaping to lend our time and talents to such a worthwhile project.

This was not only an opportunity for Classic to demonstrate our professional skills, but more importantly it was a chance to give back to the men and women who gave their lives for our country.

You may have noticed that your water-starved lawns are slowly starting to recover from the drought, but another problem is lurking outside in the form of many bright green patches. Your first thought is to blame it on that pesky crabgrass that we try to block every spring. However, at a closer glance, you’ll notice a distinct difference in appearance, which indicates that you have one of the most invasive weeds in your lawn, Nutsedge.

Nutsedge is a species of sedge that, at first, will resemble normal grass, but has a distinctive shape to its leaves. You can differentiate Nutsedge from crabgrass and regular turf grass by cutting a cross-section of the leaf or stem. If it is Nutsedge you will notice an obvious triangular shape.

Not only is Nutsedge extremely invasive to your lawn, but it’s very difficult to control. The name ‘Nutsedge’ itself is derived from its tubers (which is how it reproduces) just like many perennials. It’s because of these tubers in the soil that the Nutsedge can continue to thrive year after year, even if you’ve treated for it. Most herbicides are ineffective in treating Nutsedge, and the ones that are only kill the leaves you see in your lawn, not the root system or tubers.

You’ll also notice that Nutsedge tends to grow in the areas of your lawn that retain the most moisture and/or have the thinnest turf density. The most effective chemicals to treat Nutsedge are not usually sold to home gardeners. However, proactive measures can be taken to help healthy turf grass “choke out” the presence of these weeds.

Core aerating and overseeding your lawn in the fall are great ways to fight back in the war against weeds, especially on newer lawns that have recently been established. Creating a dense, thick lawn will help your healthy grass overtake difficult weeds like Nutsedge and crabgrass. Also, be sure to cut your lawn at a height no less than 2 ½ to 3 inches, as cutting it shorter will reduce the turf’s root system and its ability to compete with weeds like Nutsedge.

If you’re seeing a great deal of bright green patches in your lawn, take a moment to pull a sample and compare to this article. If you do have Nutsedge it’s not the end of the world, but taking action sooner rather than later will increase your chance to eradicate the problem. If left untreated, Nutsedge will continue to thrive and spread each summer, and become an unsightly inhabitant of your lawn!

South Africa has been in the headlines often during the past few weeks. It was host to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. More recently, a little known golfer named Louis Oosthuizen, a South African, stunned the golfing world with a seven-stroke victory at the British Open last Sunday. And ironically, Oosthuizen won on the same day South Africa celebrated the birthday of former president Nelson Mandela.

South Africa has much to offer the horticultural world, too. Many of its native plants are beautiful and hardy, and would make great additions to the landscapes and gardens of Maryland and Southern Pennsylvania. Although our hardiness zones are not precisely matched, they are close enough to allow us to grow some lovely specimens as annuals or even tender perennials. Continue reading to explore the possibilities!

Arctotis venusta (Blue-eyed African Daisy)

A member of the Compositae family, this perky little flower can be grown as a half-hardy annual. It grows to between 2 ½ and 3 ½ feet in height, and has an upright, branching habit. The 3” flower heads bob merrily on long peduncles (stalks). They have an iridescent blue-violet center and the white ray flowers (petals) have an undersurface of silvery blue. The flowers must have sun to open and will close in the evenings or on cloudy days.

These plants need full sun, perform best in average to poor soil, and are drought tolerant. They are easily started from seed indoors and transplanted outside when night temperatures reliably reach 50 degrees. They will bloom throughout the summer well into heavy frost. Other hybrids and varieties, in numerous color combinations, are becoming widely available.

Gazania rigens (Treasure-flower)

Another member of the Compositae family, this flower can be grown in our climate as a tender annual. It has a low and sprawling growth habit between 8 and 12 inches in height (depending on the cultivar or hybrid), often spreading to 16 inches. The slender oblanceolate leaves have a silvery cast to them, which adds to the overall visual interest of this plant. The straight species has 3” flowers held just above the foliage, with yellow to orange ray flowers (petals) and dark brown shading at the base. However, many color choices are available: yellow with a red stripe, pure yellow, cream, orange, pink, and red.

This would be a great choice for an annual groundcover. It should be situated in full sun in light, well-drained, sandy, moderately fertile soil. It is drought and heat tolerant, especially when established early in the season. Butterflies love the flowers, but so do rabbits! If rabbits are a problem in your area, grow these in containers – they will perform just as well.

Osteospermum ecklonis

Yet another member of the popular Compositae family, Osteospermum are grown as an annual in the Northeast. They may be low-growing, sprawling, upright or rounded in habit, depending on the cultivar. They range in height from 1 to 2 ½ feet. The soft, fleshy, bright green foliage contrasts beautifully with the white daisy-like ray flowers of the straight species plant. The flower centers are iridescent blue. Cultivars are available in lots of color choices such as pink, purple, violet, yellow and gold, to name a few.

These plants are cool season bloomers, which means they will reliably bloom in  spring/early summer, take a break in the summer heat, and bloom again in the cooler temperatures of autumn, even well into frosts. But don’t let their lack of summer blooms deter you – the foliage adds a lovely texture to the garden all by itself. Plant them in full sun (the flowers need full sun to open), in well-drained garden soil. They appreciate water, so monitor the moisture level closely. Breeders are currently working on producing Osteospermum that can take the heat of American and European summers. Check out www.osteospermum.com for more details and loads of information.

Diascia integerrima (Twinspur)

This delicate-looking but robust flower is a member of the Schrophulariaceae (Snapdragon) family. If you know anything about Snapdragons, you will have an idea about the inflorescence habit of this plant. It is a half-hardy annual (it can even tolerate frost in the fall) with an upright, clump-forming habit, growing to 1 ½ feet tall. The grey-green foliage is concentrated mostly around the lower part of the stems, with taller, prodigiously floriferous spikes rising upward. Small, graceful, cup-shaped flowers are rose-pink with a yellow and maroon splotch in the center.  The common name, Twinspur, derives from two posterior spurs on each flower.

Diascia integerrima enjoys a long bloom season from early summer through the first frost. Plant it in full sun in very well-drained garden soil. It must have excellent drainage, so add some grit to your soil if necessary. It is heat and drought tolerant, and would work well in a rock garden, container, or groundcover application.

When making plans for your 2011 garden, remember to include some of these South African beauties. You’ll be glad you did!

FREDERICK, MD, JULY 19, 2010 — Classic Landscaping, Inc., a member of the Professional Landcare Network (PLANET), participated in Renewal & Remembrance at Arlington National Cemetery on Monday, July 19, 2010.

Hundreds of landscape and lawn care professionals from across the nation bring their crews to Arlington National Cemetery to spend the day mulching, upgrading sprinklers, cabling and installing lightening protection for trees, pruning, liming more than 200 acres, planting, and aerating the soil. This gift is valued at more than $250,000 in products and services.

“Our members look forward to this opportunity each year to give back to the men and women who gave their lives for their country,” said Walter Wray, Landscape Industry Certified Technician, PLANET member and chairman of the event. “We consider it a privilege to be able to lend our time and talents to such a worthwhile project.” Many PLANET members have special connections at the cemetery either through relatives and friends who are buried there or through their own military service.

The day began at Arlington National Cemetery with a ceremony featuring a joint color guard and speaker presentations to dedicate the day of work and helping to maintain these hallowed grounds.

“The time and resources donated by Classic don’t begin to equal the joy and satisfaction experienced by each member of our team,” said President and CEO, Scott Hall. “We are grateful for the opportunity to serve our country through our simple efforts. It was wonderful to be a part of this event.”

Supporting the event at the platinum level were Husqvarna Outdoor Products and Syngenta. For more information, visit LandcareNetwork.org, or call the PLANET office at (800) 395-2522.

PLANET is the association of members who create and maintain the QUALITY OF LIFE in communities across America. With more than 3,500 member companies and affiliates, these firms and their employees represent more than 100,000 green industry professionals. Some of these professionals have taken the extra step of becoming certified through PLANET and bear the distinction of being known as Landscape Industry Certified.

[ You can read the Frederick News Post feature interview with Scott Hall about this event at http://www.fredericknewspost.com/sections/business/display.htm?StoryID=107246 ]

If you’re outside entertaining your friends and family (maybe not this week with record temperatures everywhere!!!), you may notice a few guests who arrived uninvited!  Party Crashers!!!

It seems that the harsh winter, along with some very early strange weather patterns (April and May saw all of the fruit trees blooming in the same week all across Maryland and parts of Pennsylvania!).

So who are these early, uninvited guests?  Good old Mr. Japanese Beetle for one.  Also, his friends, the Green June Beetle and the Oriental Beetle.  Not only will they chew on the leaves of most fruit trees, especially plum, they will eventually burrow into the ground and lay eggs.  That’s when the fun begins!  Once hatched, these larvae will feed on the grass roots.  Eventually, patches of brown, dead turf will appear where they have been feeding.  If you haven’t yet treated for the larvae, you have about one week.  The best way to control these root-feeding larvae, better known as grubs, is to apply an insecticide just before the eggs hatch.  The best window of time is about 2-3 weeks before the 4^th of July up to about 2 weeks after.

Another unwelcome participant at your cookout is the Bagworm.  They love to “hang” out on your Leyland Cypress, arborvitae, and spruce trees.  Look closely because they are still somewhat small.  They look like small bags or cones hanging from the tree.  Unless treated, they can quickly devour a plant.  Try using Bt or Conserve as a pesticide treatment. If they have grown to a larger size, whack those guys with something stronger like Orthene!  If you fail to treat while they are still feeding, in all likelihood, say goodbye to your tree!

On another note, one quick turf tip!

If your lawn has gone dormant (brown, straw colored) during this recent drought period, don’t start watering now.  Simply wait for the next good soaking rain and watch the fescues respond.  If you start watering on your own, you’ll break the plants’ natural protection of shutting down the photosynthesis process, and you’ll be forced to continue watering until the drought breaks.

While in dormancy, keep any type of traffic (both foot and vehicular) off the grass.  You’ll break the tender “crown” of the plant and loose it for good.

Stay cool!  Relief is in sight!

I remember many things about growing up, and – although my memory is certainly in a decline with each passing of year – one thing I do not remember is ever seeing a stink bug. Many other insects are associated with distinct memories for me: mosquitoes on camping trips, lightning bugs on warm summer nights (usually involving a jar to capture them…), and ants trailing from a sticky watermelon seed forgotten on the picnic table, just to name a few.

The reason I do not remember seeing them is that they simply did not exist in our country until the late 1990’s. It has been determined that they were introduced into the United States from Asia, and first showed their archaic-looking selves in the lands around Allentown, Pennsylvania. Once entering the US, they quickly acclimated themselves to our culture, and decided to travel around and see the sights of our great nation! They are now residents of over 20 states, ranging from the Northwest in Washington and Oregon, to the South in Tennessee, to a good portion of the eastern states.

Stink bugs do not harm humans (unless you count nearly dying from a heart attack when finding one under the pillow in the middle of the night). They are a minor pest to the agricultural world, however, feeding on fruit bearing, ornamental, and other plants.

So, why the name “stink bug?” I will admit, I have not ever actually smelled a stink bug. I am a coward at heart and a “girly girl” – I do not care for stinky things. I am loath to actually find out how stinky they truly are. I will not squish them, and I will not vacuum them. I simply gather them gently in a tissue and flick them out the door. I am always careful not to startle them because the word on the street is that they release their scent as a natural mechanism to predators like birds and other animals. The fact that I have never actually smelled them while picking them gently off my curtain is probably due to the fact that they think of me more as a roommate than a predator. Great. Someone needs to tell them that fish and (most) company stink after three days! That said, I thought it might be helpful for me to have a little knowledge on the little stinkers so I could prevent as many future encounters as possible. Learning the habits of an “enemy” is one of the best defenses against future encounters.

The stink bug is attracted to the outside of houses on warm fall days (September and October). They are looking for a comfortable, protected area to spend the winter. These snowbirds choose to set up house in between blankets, under cushions in seldom-used rooms, in the folds of curtains by a sunny window, or in a host of other comfy locations. In the beginning of June, they show more signs of life, and prepare to emerge from their hiding/resting places. Then they mate and lay eggs until August. Don’t worry – they accomplish this activity outdoors, leaving their eggs on the underside of leaves. (When inside over the winter, they are harmless, and do nothing unwelcome like feed or reproduce – yaay! This was welcome news to me!). Adults appear in late August to enjoy the autumn until cooler weather arrives, and then begin the cycle of looking for a warm place to hibernate for the winter.

To keep the pests away, start outdoors with a chemical repellant. This is best applied in the months of September and October. Seal up any cracks located around window frames, doors, vents, or up around the eaves of your home with the proper caulk. Please don’t write to me and ask about what kind of caulk is appropriate! This blog is about stink bugs and I know a lot about them now, but nothing about appropriate caulks…you’ll have to visit your favorite home store for that information.

Killing them with an insecticide indoors is apparently not recommended because although you may kill many by doing this, they will just march back in from outside immediately following the slaughter and set up shop again. Your best defense is to prevent their entry from the outside the best you can. Treatments will not totally eliminate the problem, but it should at least reduce the quantities that are evident. Say, reducing the population from a “college frat party” to a “tea with the ladies.” This sounds reasonable to me. I’m getting older now – I’ll take a few good friends over a lot of obnoxious ones!

Donnalee is the newest member of the Classic family, joining the team in April of 2010.

Transplanted from upstate New York in 2002, she enjoys all that Central Maryland has to offer – especially the warmer weather! Her primary interests and activities involve her 3 teenage daughters, elderly Shih Tzu, and Maltese puppy.  She also enjoys traveling, reading, playing kickball (yes, there are adult kickball leagues!), and spending time with friends.

Donnalee graduated from SUNY FIT in Manhattan. Following graduation, she was a merchandiser/buyer for a “big box” store in upstate NY. Not one to be away on the road so frequently, she found employment with Associated Textile Rental Services in Rochester, NY as an account executive maintaining customer relations. She remained employed by this “family-run” company until the mid 1990’s, when her youngest daughter was born.

She was a stay-at-home mom for approximately 12 years before returning to the work force part-time 3 years ago. She remained active during that time, however, in the schools her daughters attended in the PTA, Booster Clubs, High School Store, theatre productions, and many other activities.

Donnalee brings to Classic a gracious spirit and a passion for continuous improvement in customer relationships. She genuinely enjoys business relationships built on the foundation of customer service that naturally expand into friendships. The client profiles she encounters are widely varied, and every day presents new challenges and opportunities. Having an extensive background in customer relations provides an excellent foundation for her mission at Classic. Learning all the “ins and outs” of landscaping is all new, and very fascinating. (Who knew there are 67 species of the Juniper plant?)

Understanding that no one is perfect, (speaking mainly from self-reflection…), but continually urging those around her to work toward excellence is a daily goal for Donnalee.

60 SECONDS WITH DONNALEE

How long have you been part of the Classic Team?

Since April, 2010 – I’m a “newbie!”

What is your position?

Account Management

What is your favorite part about being part of the Classic Team?

The feeling as if I am “coming home” whenever I walk into our offices.

What is something about Classic that our clients might not know?

That Classic Landscaping is the largest privately held commercial landscaper in the region.

As the weather turns hotter and drier, grass growth slows and lawns lose their beautiful green hue.  It’s this summertime brown that concerns homeowners.  A recommended mowing height of 3” or higher is suggested during this time.  If you are not sure of the height setting on your mower, set the deck as high as it will go.  Mowing height adjustment is probably the most important factor in caring for your summertime lawn.  Cutting your grass too short will weaken it and make it vulnerable during dry conditions.  Lawns mowed at higher heights usually develop deeper roots systems and dry out slower that a closely mowed lawn.

Additionally, mowing activity should be reduced in hot summer months, and grass clippings can be left on the lawn. These clippings act as a barrier to help the lawn retain moisture.

Proper care of your summertime lawn, along with appropriate turf treatments, will ensure a beautiful and healthy lawn next spring.