by Dave Geis

Earlier this year, I mentioned to keep your eye out for future tips on establishing a good, healthy stand of turf.  Well, just like almost everything else in life, time passes more quickly than we hope and now we find ourselves right at that point.

Generally, as September approaches, the evening temperatures should get lower, the amount of rainfall should increase, and the humidity levels should be dropping.  All those add up to the perfect opportunity to get that lawn ready to show off to all your neighbors and friends next year.  Next Year????   Yup – it’s the upfront time and effort you invest now that will bring you the rewards next spring.

Let’s get started!

You should already have the square footage of your lawn handy someplace from our earlier discussion on crabgrass and weed control (see my earlier blog post, “Turf Tips From Dave”).  If you don’t, or have misplaced it….well, you’ll need this measurement again.

One of the most frequent problems with homeowners having a poor lawn is that there really isn’t a healthy soil base to allow proper root development.  Unfortunately, now you’ll need to build this “root zone” from the “top-down”.  Try to estimate the average distance from the crown of your existing grass to where the bare patch of soil begins.  I usually find it’s between ½” and 1”.  You need to establish an “even” base, otherwise the turf will be growing unevenly and, more importantly, when we attempt to “slice” the seed into your yard the seed will not reach the desired target area.  Use the following link to help you determine the amount of soil you’ll need: www.csgnetwork.com/topsoilcalc.html

Next, you’ll want to select a nice turf type. I recommend a tall fescue seed.  Fescues are extremely drought tolerant, less susceptible to fungal disease, and have a very nice color and texture.  The day of bluegrass lawns is passé!  I recommend the following rates:

Very thin density – 7 lbs of seed for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Medium – 5 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Just want to “beef it up” a bit – 3 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of area.

Make sure you purchase “certified” seed.  This seed has been sterilized and all weed seed is eliminated from it.  Seed from your local hardware store that is not certified is not good because it carries weed in it, defeating the purpose!  You’ll know certified seed if it carries a blue tag indicating such.

Now you’re ready to begin:

1. Spread the soil evenly and fill in low areas.
2. Using a broadcast spreader, evenly spread half the amount of seed required across your lawn.
3. Rent a power aerator from your local equipment rental store.  Aerate the lawn in two directions, perpendicular to each other.  This process will “punch” the seed into the soil while at the same time create area for good root development.  Let the cores that have been pulled, dry.
4. Using a “slit-seeder” (rented from the equipment store), slice in the other half of the needed amount in two directions.  The use of a slit seeder will insure good seed-to-soil contact.
5. Use a “starter” fertilizer at the recommended rate.
6. Set up a means to water the lawn.  Sometimes all you need is some hose attachments that can split your line in a few directions and some inexpensive impact sprinklers.

Remember to keep the area moist, and the seed should begin germination in about 12-14 days.

Now here comes the CRITICAL part: DO NOT let the young seedlings dry out!  Remember, the roots on these are microscopic and can dry out quite easily.  Keep the soil moist….not saturated….moist.  If you let the seedlings dry out, they aren’t going to be able to be revived again and all your hard work will be lost.

I know it may sound a bit involved, but it really isn’t!  Most of the time, all it takes is just one good day of work for you and a neighbor!  Splitting the cost of the equipment with someone else on your street is a good way to reduce your costs and insure that you’ll have some help!

Good luck and get started!  You’ll have both the fall growing season AND the early spring season before the threat of weed pressure begins, but you’ll have solved the biggest part of that potential problem with the thick, dense, gorgeous green lawn you now have!

NOTE: We are sad to announce that Dave is leaving Classic to pursue a job close to his home. He has been a valued member of the Classic Team for over five years, and he will be greatly missed by co-workers and clients alike. However, he has graciously accepted our invitation to visit from time to time as a guest blogger. We wish Dave all the best, and are thankful that we can continue to profit from his experience and knowledge through his helpful articles.

by Kris Wolf

Lately, we have been dealing with unusually hot weather followed by a few days of several inches of rain.  As I sit on the porch with my mother watching the sunset over the Catoctin Mountains she says, “ Red at night sailors delight, red in the morning sailors warning.”  We talked about these old wives’ tales and their origins.  Many have been passed down through generations. You have probably heard many of these tales.  Can they be proven or are they really true? I don’t know, but the weather is always a great conversation starter.

Maybe some of these tales have been passed through your family…

• When cows herd together, it’s going to rain.

• When spiders build new webs, the weather will be clear.

• If a groundhog sees his shadow on February 2, six more weeks of winter will follow.

• It’s hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk.

Whether or not these are myths or proven facts, we may never know.  Possibly you could ask an old wife.

by Nan Sheridan-Mann

I love my job! I have never been so proud of being part of a great organization as I am in being part of the Classic Landscaping family. I am deeply touched and proud of our company for taking part in the July 19 Arlington Cemetery Renewal and Remembrance.

On July 19, 2010 hundreds of landscape, lawn care and tree care companies from across the nation brought their crews to Arlington National Cemetery to spend the day mulching, pruning, liming, planting and aerating the entire cemetery. Classic Landscaping was one of those 100 companies who donated time and machinery. I was so pleased to see Scott Hall, CEO of Classic Landscaping, on a lime spreader; Brian Etchison, our Production Manager, riding a brand new John Deere tractor; and Matt Svehla, our Fleet and Facilities Manager, along with his son and seven other valuable Classic employees, working hard and contributing to this honorable project.

I was humbled by the emotion of seeing hundreds of landscaping companies working together to embrace this country’s most cherished resting place. More than 300,000 people are buried there, including veterans from all of the nation’s wars from the American Revolution through Iraq and Afghanistan. I felt that it was a privilege for Classic Landscaping to lend our time and talents to such a worthwhile project.

This was not only an opportunity for Classic to demonstrate our professional skills, but more importantly it was a chance to give back to the men and women who gave their lives for our country.

by Chris Gurreri

You may have noticed that your water-starved lawns are slowly starting to recover from the drought, but another problem is lurking outside in the form of many bright green patches. Your first thought is to blame it on that pesky crabgrass that we try to block every spring. However, at a closer glance, you’ll notice a distinct difference in appearance, which indicates that you have one of the most invasive weeds in your lawn, Nutsedge.

Nutsedge is a species of sedge that, at first, will resemble normal grass, but has a distinctive shape to its leaves. You can differentiate Nutsedge from crabgrass and regular turf grass by cutting a cross-section of the leaf or stem. If it is Nutsedge you will notice an obvious triangular shape.

Not only is Nutsedge extremely invasive to your lawn, but it’s very difficult to control. The name ‘Nutsedge’ itself is derived from its tubers (which is how it reproduces) just like many perennials. It’s because of these tubers in the soil that the Nutsedge can continue to thrive year after year, even if you’ve treated for it. Most herbicides are ineffective in treating Nutsedge, and the ones that are only kill the leaves you see in your lawn, not the root system or tubers.

You’ll also notice that Nutsedge tends to grow in the areas of your lawn that retain the most moisture and/or have the thinnest turf density. The most effective chemicals to treat Nutsedge are not usually sold to home gardeners. However, proactive measures can be taken to help healthy turf grass “choke out” the presence of these weeds.

Core aerating and overseeding your lawn in the fall are great ways to fight back in the war against weeds, especially on newer lawns that have recently been established. Creating a dense, thick lawn will help your healthy grass overtake difficult weeds like Nutsedge and crabgrass. Also, be sure to cut your lawn at a height no less than 2 ½ to 3 inches, as cutting it shorter will reduce the turf’s root system and its ability to compete with weeds like Nutsedge.

If you’re seeing a great deal of bright green patches in your lawn, take a moment to pull a sample and compare to this article. If you do have Nutsedge it’s not the end of the world, but taking action sooner rather than later will increase your chance to eradicate the problem. If left untreated, Nutsedge will continue to thrive and spread each summer, and become an unsightly inhabitant of your lawn!

by Sandie Hall

South Africa has been in the headlines often during the past few weeks. It was host to the 2010 FIFA World Cup. More recently, a little known golfer named Louis Oosthuizen, a South African, stunned the golfing world with a seven-stroke victory at the British Open last Sunday. And ironically, Oosthuizen won on the same day South Africa celebrated the birthday of former president Nelson Mandela.

South Africa has much to offer the horticultural world, too. Many of its native plants are beautiful and hardy, and would make great additions to the landscapes and gardens of Maryland and Southern Pennsylvania. Although our hardiness zones are not precisely matched, they are close enough to allow us to grow some lovely specimens as annuals or even tender perennials. Continue reading to explore the possibilities!

Arctotis venusta (Blue-eyed African Daisy)

A member of the Compositae family, this perky little flower can be grown as a half-hardy annual. It grows to between 2 ½ and 3 ½ feet in height, and has an upright, branching habit. The 3” flower heads bob merrily on long peduncles (stalks). They have an iridescent blue-violet center and the white ray flowers (petals) have an undersurface of silvery blue. The flowers must have sun to open and will close in the evenings or on cloudy days.

These plants need full sun, perform best in average to poor soil, and are drought tolerant. They are easily started from seed indoors and transplanted outside when night temperatures reliably reach 50 degrees. They will bloom throughout the summer well into heavy frost. Other hybrids and varieties, in numerous color combinations, are becoming widely available.

Gazania rigens (Treasure-flower)

Another member of the Compositae family, this flower can be grown in our climate as a tender annual. It has a low and sprawling growth habit between 8 and 12 inches in height (depending on the cultivar or hybrid), often spreading to 16 inches. The slender oblanceolate leaves have a silvery cast to them, which adds to the overall visual interest of this plant. The straight species has 3” flowers held just above the foliage, with yellow to orange ray flowers (petals) and dark brown shading at the base. However, many color choices are available: yellow with a red stripe, pure yellow, cream, orange, pink, and red.

This would be a great choice for an annual groundcover. It should be situated in full sun in light, well-drained, sandy, moderately fertile soil. It is drought and heat tolerant, especially when established early in the season. Butterflies love the flowers, but so do rabbits! If rabbits are a problem in your area, grow these in containers – they will perform just as well.

Osteospermum ecklonis

Yet another member of the popular Compositae family, Osteospermum are grown as an annual in the Northeast. They may be low-growing, sprawling, upright or rounded in habit, depending on the cultivar. They range in height from 1 to 2 ½ feet. The soft, fleshy, bright green foliage contrasts beautifully with the white daisy-like ray flowers of the straight species plant. The flower centers are iridescent blue. Cultivars are available in lots of color choices such as pink, purple, violet, yellow and gold, to name a few.

These plants are cool season bloomers, which means they will reliably bloom in  spring/early summer, take a break in the summer heat, and bloom again in the cooler temperatures of autumn, even well into frosts. But don’t let their lack of summer blooms deter you – the foliage adds a lovely texture to the garden all by itself. Plant them in full sun (the flowers need full sun to open), in well-drained garden soil. They appreciate water, so monitor the moisture level closely. Breeders are currently working on producing Osteospermum that can take the heat of American and European summers. Check out www.osteospermum.com for more details and loads of information.

Diascia integerrima (Twinspur)

This delicate-looking but robust flower is a member of the Schrophulariaceae (Snapdragon) family. If you know anything about Snapdragons, you will have an idea about the inflorescence habit of this plant. It is a half-hardy annual (it can even tolerate frost in the fall) with an upright, clump-forming habit, growing to 1 ½ feet tall. The grey-green foliage is concentrated mostly around the lower part of the stems, with taller, prodigiously floriferous spikes rising upward. Small, graceful, cup-shaped flowers are rose-pink with a yellow and maroon splotch in the center.  The common name, Twinspur, derives from two posterior spurs on each flower.

Diascia integerrima enjoys a long bloom season from early summer through the first frost. Plant it in full sun in very well-drained garden soil. It must have excellent drainage, so add some grit to your soil if necessary. It is heat and drought tolerant, and would work well in a rock garden, container, or groundcover application.

When making plans for your 2011 garden, remember to include some of these South African beauties. You’ll be glad you did!